When Senjan Jansen’s soundtrack created for Glenn Marten’s Y/Project Fall 2023 show during Paris Fashion Week remixed 58 different renditions of Handel’s famous aria “Lascia ch’io pianga”, the collection itself was a denim symphony – remastered in countless iterations.
It was stitched together vertically with multiple seams, creating bulbous volumes, as distressed embroidery embellishing sweats, tweed coats, floor-length chiffon dresses, and regal jeans-on-denim kaftans – as artfully crafted as those of Chanel’s métiers d’art – Studio Lesage.
These high-waisted Y/Project boots—somewhere between a wader and a cuissard—morphed into what may or may not have been real jeans, while new versions featured snaps so they could be shaped to the wearer’s preference.
Bags also came in twisted denim, molded with inner wire – another classic Y/Project motif, or embroidered in denim with the Y/Project crest complete with the Eiffel Tower. FYI Martens has always thought big: he launched the latter 10 years ago shortly after being appointed to the label.
Of course, there have also been more straight forward commercial interpretations of the jeans, or as straight forward as it gets with a Y’Project jean, while denim also crept in where it wasn’t – into a “is it or isn’t it? ‘ Trompe l’oeil effect on a shirt.
Elsewhere, stills from pornographic films, artfully cropped to suggest semi-decency, were printed on dresses and separates reminiscent of the sex-positive framing of Martens’ Diesel collection, shown a few weeks ago in Milan against a backdrop of some 200,000 boxes of Durex prophylaxis.
The Jewelry, made up of hand signals created with consultant Stephanie D’Heygere, who debuted Martens for Spring, returned, fingering anyone who thought denim was just for the weekend.